Visit the Ganges River at dawn in Varanasi

“We’re on a wooden boat being rowed down the Ganges, to the low hum of chanting through a distant speaker. The soft dawn light falls on a row of bathers who have descended down the ghat steps to stand waist high in the holy water. The river is dotted with boats coming to and fro – some large and many filled with tourists – but I only hear the rustle and splash of bathers as we go past. One boat is sailing by with a TV balanced on its bow, transmitting Hindu chants through the still morning air.”

“The sun slowly emerges through the morning haze and across the Ganges as I trudge along ancient ghats. Thus, a new day begins in timeworn Varanasi, the holiest of cities in India. As I find my way up and down and across endless ghats in near darkness, my other senses are acuter. I am aware of the creaking boatman’s oar, the lapping of water against the worn steps, quiet voices murmuring – no, softly repeating mantras. A potpourri of aromas fills my nostrils like a breeze filling stillness. There’s the scent of woodsmoke from the endlessly burning funeral pyres, the ooze of life and death flowing by, and sweat.”

“This was our last full day in Varanasi and it started early. The first scheduled event was to witness the morning rituals along the Ganges River by boat. On the bus at 5:00, we got to the water before dawn. There are several things that happen first thing in the morning – bathing, washing clothes, presenting offerings and praying.”