Try shawarma in the Middle East

“Here I am in Dubai, fresh in from Israel and the West Bank, where I feasted with the PLO high command. Dubai is a vast contrast - all flashy high-rise hotels and freshly laid highways - but it's the city's underbelly, with its backstreet vendors and hidden cafés, that I'm here for. I'm on a quest for the perfect shawarma: the magnificent, spit-roasted delicacy of the Middle East, which I'm hoping will transform Britain's attitudes to the kebab. [...] Eager for more, I fly on to Amman and visit a host of down-and-dirty neighbourhood hangouts, salivating at Shawerma Al-Faris, where the chicken shawarma was invented. They serve it with fried potatoes sliced up in the meat and, crucially, roasted on the horizontal above charcoal. I feel we're getting closer to my dream kebab.”