Take time off and learn to surf

“Although I was able to surf quite nicely, I felt that I got very tired very quickly. To move forward towards the launch point, I had to fight very strong currents with my lower body, while the waves kept lifting me and pushing me back every few seconds (so it felt like three steps forward, two steps back). I was exhausted after just 10 minutes! When I got out of the water, my wetsuit was filled with water around the ankles and arms, and it was soaking wet and extremely heavy once I took it off.”

“First time i surfed was in the Netherlands, near a place called Bloemendaal. The guy was pretty nice, but especially surfed himself a lot. The waves were pretty big and the bottom of the ocean wasn’t reachable for me, which made it really hard and tiring to get on the board. I used muscles i didnt even know I had.. Unfortunately I wasnt able to stand up for the first session, but I did learn how to catch waves in the upright push up position thingy. I got really excited about learning more as I loved the experience. I did have pain everywhere for about 3 full days :,)”

“It was rough..it was cold..it was hard, my body was completely taxed and it was incredibly hard to get out in 1-2’ 38th Santa Cruz lol..it was a long ass mission and I didn’t go but maybe average 2x a year for 4 years ..didn’t get it and was completely taxed for the whole day and the next…took a month off from Covid to get addicted to the challenge and a few months to catch a substantial ride/wave at OB to get completely hooked/buzzing..really started last March/ April going consistently with a teacher”